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Prepurchase Inspection Checklist & Not paying full price

Updated: Feb 4

There is a lot to cover in a car inspection, this guide is a general visual way to inspect a car. This list covers things you can check for on all types of cars. Anyone can inspect a car but it does help to understand all the various systems and components your looking at. And of course feel free to reach out to us if you'd like us to handle it for you.


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Eye-level view of a car's front grille and headlights showing clear condition
Inspecting the front grille and headlights for damage or wear

Inspect the front of the car carefully for any visible damage or wear.



Check the Front of the Car


Start your inspection at the front, where damage or wear is often most visible.


  • Headlights and Indicators

Look for cracks, fogging, or moisture inside the lenses. Test all lights to ensure they work properly. Faulty lights can be costly to replace and may indicate electrical issues. Hazy headlights are a pretty easy fix, maybe 45 minutes with a kit you buy for 20$ from most car parts stores. Could place to think about knocking 100$ off the top.


  • Front Bumper and Grille

Examine for dents, scratches, or misalignment. Misaligned parts could signal previous accidents. Check the grille for cracks or missing pieces.


  • Hood and Panel Gaps

Open the hood and check for rust, dents, or signs of repainting. Uneven panel gaps may suggest body repairs or poor assembly. If the car has two different shades of the same color it was repainted and repaired in one of the sections.



  • Windshield and Wipers

Inspect the windshield for chips or cracks. Test the wipers to ensure they clear the glass effectively. ( If not looking like they have been changed in years, how is the rest of the car? Especially in Places like Florida where it rains often )


Inspect Under the Hood


The engine bay reveals a lot about the car’s condition and maintenance history.


  • Engine Condition

Look for oil leaks, corrosion, or worn belts. A clean engine doesn’t always mean good condition, but excessive dirt or leaks are red flags. Pretty Much any two surfaces that connect with bolts has a type of gasket material to stop fluids from escaping. Inspect along the seems to see any leaks, signs of a very slow leak would be extra dirt build up in certain areas.


  • Fluid Levels and Quality

Check oil, coolant, brake fluid, and transmission fluid levels. Dark or dirty fluids may indicate neglect. Ideally oil should be like a honey color, power steering fluid can bright red or clear. Transmission fluid red to bright red. Brake fluid should be clearish.



  • Battery and Cables

Inspect for corrosion on terminals and secure connections. A weak battery can cause starting problems. Put your hands on em, give them a shake, not to hard but if they wiggle that's an issue ( an easy once perhaps)


  • Hoses and Belts

Look for cracks, brittleness, or leaks. Worn hoses and belts can fail suddenly, leading to breakdowns. Squeezing a hose or vacuum line gently can give you an idea of the age, tough and hard vacuum hoses are generally pretty old. Squishy coolant hoses are typically old.


Examine the Tires and Wheels


Tires and wheels affect safety and performance.


  • Tire Tread and Wear

Use a tread depth gauge or a coin to check tread depth. Uneven wear can indicate alignment or suspension problems. Really get your head down there and check the total wear pattern of the front and rear wheels, sometimes the inner tire ware can be so bad you almost can see it from the side.



  • Sidewall Condition

Look for cracks, bulges, or cuts on tire sidewalls. Damaged tires are unsafe and need replacement. Which can be a good point to negotiate more money off the total purchase price, totally not a deal breaker. Tires also have date codes on them to check the age on them.


  • Wheel Rims

Check for dents, cracks, or corrosion on rims. Damaged rims can cause vibrations or air leaks.


  • Spare Tire and Tools

Don’t forget to check the spare tire’s condition and ensure the jack and tools are present.


  • Check the Brakes & Wheel Bearings / Ball joints

If you can jack the font of the car up, and check for play in the wheel bearings and ball joints, then remove the wheel and inspect the brake pads for how much life they have left in them.


Look at the Side of the Car


The sides can reveal signs of accidents or rust.


  • Doors and Handles

Open and close each door to check for smooth operation. Look for dents, scratches, or mismatched paint. Squeaking doors also usually just need some lube, a fair chance to knock a couple bucks off.


  • Windows and Mirrors

Inspect for cracks or chips. Test window controls and mirror adjustments.


  • Side Panels and Rocker Panels

Check for rust, dents, or signs of repair. Rust often starts near the bottom edges. Florida is pretty good about not rusting. Unless your out by the beaches then that air can be a bit salty.


  • Underbody

Look under the car for rust, leaks, or damage to the frame and exhaust system. Really look them over, a popular move when buying cars in the 5k - 10k range can be buying cars from the north and then selling them down here. The cars dont pass inspection there, and on the outside look fine, but are hiding rust underneath that could really cause you to want to total the car. A little bit is fine, but if you can poke a hole through it, watch out.



Check the Interior


The inside condition reflects how well the car was cared for.


  • Seats and Upholstery

Look for tears, stains, or excessive wear. Test seat adjustments and seatbelts. And if the carpet is dirty, not a deal breaker. Just know they have to be cleaned and that could be a good thing to bring up.


  • Dashboard and Controls

Turn on the ignition and check all gauges, warning lights, and controls. Faulty electronics can be expensive to fix.


  • Air Conditioning and Heating

Test the climate control system for proper function.


  • Floor and Carpets

Check for dampness or mold, which could indicate leaks.


Inspect the Rear of the Car


The back of the car often shows signs of accidents or wear.


  • Tail Lights and Brake Lights

Check for cracks and test all lights. If a few bulbs are out, take that off the price as well.


  • Rear Bumper and Trunk

Look for dents, scratches, or misalignment. Open the trunk and check for water damage or rust.


  • Exhaust Pipe

Inspect for rust or damage. Excessive smoke or noise during a test drive can indicate engine problems.


Take a Test Drive


Nothing replaces a hands-on test drive to assess the car’s performance.


  • Engine Performance

Listen for unusual noises and check acceleration and idling. Once done on your test ride, kill the motor and wait about 2 - 5 minutes and try to start it again, some cars start great cold but hot not so much.


  • Braking

Test brakes for responsiveness and listen for squeaks or grinding.


  • Steering and Suspension

Notice if the car pulls to one side or if the ride feels bumpy. If you come to a stop and keep bouncing the shocks need to be replaced for sure.


  • Transmission

For automatic cars, shifts should be smooth. For manuals, clutch engagement should be firm. And always check all of the gears!


GOOD LUCK


Hopefully you will avoid the lemons and get a good deal on the car you want! Never pay full asking price, unless your totally happy with the car and it is a legitimately good deal. But 9.5 out of 10 times, you shouldn't pay full price. Couple hundred bucks off at least covers some of the taxes/fees.


And of course

If this seems a bit much or you would just like to have a more experienced mechanic on the scene for your next purchase please go ahead and book a PPI. We will have an experienced team mate come out and perform the PPI for you! As well as recommend the price you should pay. Its typically no issue to get at least the price of the PPI off the total cost of the car. Click Below to learn more.







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